Passwords versus Passkeys

Traditional multi-factor authentication involves three methods of authentication, at least two of which are required for protection. They include something you know (a password), something you have (usually a code from an authenticator app or text message), and something you are (biometric authentication). Most systems primarily use the first two, but that leaves room for attack because someone could acquire your password and an authentication code through nefarious means.

Passkeys change the model. Instead of how passwords and codes use words and numbers that can be copied and shared, passkeys are pairs of cryptographic keys: a public key and a private key. Websites keep the public key, and the private key is stored securely within a device or encrypted vault, such as in the Secure Enclave in Apple’s chips or a 1Password vault. Authenticating with a website requires providing the private key that matches the account’s public key, something that Apple users with modern devices can usually initiate with Touch ID or Face ID.

Instead of generating security with something you have and something you know, passkeys rely on possession (do you have the device?) and presence (are you physically in front of the device?). This approach is fundamentally more secure than passwords because the private key can’t be phished, copied, or used remotely, and you must be physically present to unlock your device. Nor can you be tricked into providing a passkey to a malicious website. (Neither approach protects against physical coercion.)

Where Can You Use Passkeys?

In practice, since you use passkeys primarily to sign into websites, passkeys are stored alongside account details in your password manager. For Apple users, Safari (in iOS 16 or macOS 13 Ventura and later) with Apple’s Passwords app provides the most integrated passkey experience. However, most independent password managers, such as 1Password, Bitwarden, and Dashlane, also enable you to store, share, and enter passkeys and can take over for or work alongside Apple’s Passwords. They provide consistent passkey functionality across all major Web browsers, although experiences may vary slightly due to differences in how they handle authentication prompts and platform integration.

You’ll also find robust support in the Password Manager built into Google Chrome and other Chromium-based browsers, including Arc, Brave, Edge, Opera, and Vivaldi. Firefox’s native passkey support is more limited, but third-party password managers work well with Firefox. 

Although website support for passkeys was initially slow, an increasing number of sites now support them. That includes the big three of Apple, Google, and Microsoft, of course, as well as Amazon, Best Buy, Discord, eBay, GitHub, Intuit, Netflix, Notion, PayPal, Robinhood, Stripe, Target, Walmart, and WhatsApp.

Setting Up Passkeys

The process of setting up passkeys varies a little by website, but is generally remarkably easy. You may be prompted to create a passkey while signing in, or you may need to navigate to the security options associated with your account.

Google offers both approaches. Setting up a passkey for a Google Account can be as simple as agreeing to do so while logging in. If you’re already logged in, Google’s Passkeys and security keys page lets you make one. Once you click Create a Passkey, you’ll be prompted to save it in either Apple’s Passwords or another password manager like 1Password. That’s it.

Note that if you use both Passwords and another password manager, you can save the passkey in only one, and only that one can use it to sign in later. However, most sites that support passkeys let you add multiple passkeys, so you could save separate passkeys in different password managers.

Signing in with Passkeys

Similarly, using a passkey to sign in is trivially simple. You navigate to the website’s login page, enter your username, choose the passkey sign-in option if necessary, and then authenticate.

Exactly how you authenticate depends on the device you’re using and your password manager. On the Mac, Passwords will ask you to use Touch ID if available (above) or a dialog otherwise (below, left). 1Password, once unlocked for the session, presents a dialog with a Sign In button (below right).

On the iPhone and iPad, an authentication dialog appears at the bottom of the screen asking if you want to sign in with your passkey. Tap Continue and authenticate with Face ID or Touch ID (with a fallback to your passcode if necessary).

Unsurprisingly, Apple makes it particularly easy to sign in to Apple websites like iCloud.com using a passkey. As soon as you navigate to such a site in Safari, the device prompts you to sign in using your current Apple Account username and an implicit passkey.

When using other browsers or another Mac that lacks access to your passkey, selecting the passkey sign-in option displays a QR code that you need to scan with an iPhone or iPad that has the passkey stored on it.

Managing and Sharing Passkeys

As noted, passkeys are stored in accounts managed by a password manager. In fact, passkeys are currently stored alongside passwords in each account. There’s nothing to see or edit, although you can delete passkeys like any other data. Although deleting the passkey on your device guarantees that it can’t be used to sign in again, it’s best to also delete the passkey at the website where you created it to avoid confusion.

Passkeys are automatically synced among all your devices by the password manager so you can take advantage of them everywhere, but note that syncing is specific to just one password manager—for instance, iCloud Keychain doesn’t sync with 1Password or other third-party managers. The authentication method varies by device, but the overall experience remains the same. 

You can also share passkeys with other people in your family or workgroup, just as you would with password-only accounts. They can log in to your passkey-protected accounts because they can prove possession (they have the passkey) and presence (they’re authenticating). In essence, you’re saying, “This person is authorized to act as the account holder.”

Passkey Concerns

Although passkeys are a big step forward in usability and security compared to passwords, they’re not without limitations or concerns, which have slowed adoption:

• Account recoverability: Because passkeys are tied to devices, if a user loses all their devices and doesn’t have a cloud backup option (such as registering a new iPhone to an existing Apple Account or adding a new device to a 1Password account), it’s impossible to recover an account. This is primarily a concern for those who have only a single device and no one with whom to share.
• Sharing hurdles: If you want to give someone else passkey access to an account—perhaps a shared bank account—you must log in on their device and then create an additional passkey that is stored on their device. 
• Lack of portability: Although passkeys can be synced between devices using the same platform (iCloud Keychain, 1Password account, etc.), there’s no way to export a passkey from one platform and import it into another. You have to recreate passkeys from scratch for each platform. Vendors are working on the problem, but as you can imagine, enabling export/import opens up security concerns. 
• User confusion: People are, understandably, still unfamiliar with passkeys, leading many to avoid them on principle. It hasn’t helped that using passkeys is slightly different on every website. The industry is working to standardize the user experience, but we’re not there yet.
• Passwords still exist: No major websites allow passkey-only accounts. Since all accounts still have passwords that can be stolen, passkeys aren’t increasing security nearly as much as they could.
• Enterprise support: Large organizations want to know if a passkey was generated on a secure device, if it can be revoked or rotated, and if the user employing the passkey has truly been verified. Support for these requirements is still evolving.
• Digital inheritance: When passkey-only accounts become commonplace in the future, passkeys may be more challenging to manage in situations involving the user’s death. For now, the solution is to share passkey-protected accounts with family members in advance using a password manager. The industry would do well to establish standards around this inevitability.

Nonetheless, the perfect shouldn’t be the enemy of the good. Passkeys improve on passwords in both usability and security, and the best way to get to an easier, more secure future is to start using passkeys wherever possible today.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

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The post Why Passkeys Are Better than Passwords (And How to Use Them) first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Modern Web browsers offer profiles, a powerful but often overlooked feature. Whether you’re juggling work and personal browsing or managing multiple projects, browser profiles can make your digital life more organized and efficient.

Why Use Browser Profiles?

The overarching reason to use browser profiles is to make it easier to focus on one thing at a time. Imagine you’re working on a bathroom remodel at home while negotiating a new contract with an important client at work. You probably don’t want to be distracted by tabs showcasing countertop surfaces when you should be estimating client deliverable dates. That’s especially true if you use the same Web apps—Gmail, Google Docs, Slack, Trello—to manage both personal and professional projects.

By setting up separate browser profiles, you can keep your work and personal browsing completely separate. That includes different bookmarks, sets of tabs, and account logins for the same websites. When you open Google Docs in your personal profile, you will find sheets that track the timeline for your bathroom remodel in your personal account; switch to your work profile to view only documents in your work account.

Other common uses for browser profiles include separating clients—particularly when managing accounts for them—keeping research projects or hobbies distinct, and maintaining a clean browser environment for testing.

What’s Stored in a Browser Profile?

Each browser profile maintains its own distinct set of browsing data and settings. While specifics may vary slightly among browsers, options include:

• Bookmarks/favorites: Saved websites, possibly in hierarchical folders
• Browsing history: The chronological list of websites you have visited
• Saved passwords: Login credentials for websites if you rely on the browser rather than an independent password manager
• Extensions and their settings: Which browser extensions are installed and how they’re configured
• Cookies and site data: These store website preferences, login status, and site-specific information
• Stored forms and autofill data: Saved addresses, payment methods, and other form data
• Browser settings and preferences: Search engine preferences, home page and startup settings, theme and appearance options, and privacy and security settings
• Open tabs and windows: Including tab groups and recently closed tabs

When you switch between profiles, you get a completely fresh browser environment with its own set of everything listed above. You can log in to the same website using different accounts in various profiles, and your activity in one profile won’t impact or be visible in another.

Setting Up and Switching Between Profiles

Getting started with profiles is simple. Here’s how to create and switch between them in Safari (in macOS 14 Sonoma and later), Google Chrome, and Firefox. Before you get started, though, a few tips:

• Give profiles descriptive names and distinct colors so they’re easy to identify.
• Keep the number of profiles manageable because too many can become confusing.
• If you create profiles for clients or projects, periodically review and tidy up unused ones.
• Keep in mind that profiles are intended for organization and efficiency, not security—anyone with access to your Mac can switch to any profile.
• Chrome and Firefox profiles are stored on a particular computer—they won’t sync with another copy of those browsers on another computer.

Safari

Safari profiles share more data than those in Google Chrome and Firefox, and unlike the other two, Safari profiles automatically sync between devices. All bookmarks and saved passwords are accessible to all profiles, although you can choose a separate primary bookmark folder for each profile. Note that Safari stores its current settings in a permanent Personal profile that becomes visible only after you create a new one. To create a new profile in Safari:

1. Choose Safari > Settings > Profiles.
2. If this is your first new profile, click Start Using Profiles. Otherwise, click + to create a new profile.
3. Enter a name, and choose a symbol and color.
4. Select a folder within your bookmarks to hold the profile’s primary bookmarks.
5. Click Create Profile.
   
6. Choose how new windows and tabs open.
7. Click the Extensions tab, and select the extensions you want to use with the profile.

Every window in Safari is associated with a profile, so switching between them can be as simple as clicking another window or using the Window menu. At most, you have to open a new window for the desired profile:

• Choose File > New Profile Window. If you have three or more profiles, the command becomes File > New Window > New Profile Window.
• With the sidebar closed, click the profile button and choose New Profile Window to create a new window. When viewing the Start page, you can choose Switch to Profile Window to change the profile for the current window.
  

Google Chrome

Google Chrome has had browser profile support for many years. Like Safari, you start with a default profile. To create a new profile in Chrome:

1. Choose Profiles > Add Profile. Click to continue without an account or sign in with a different Google account.
2. Enter a name and pick an icon for the profile.
   
3. If desired, choose Chrome > Settings to adjust settings and active extensions for the new profile.

Every window is associated with a profile, so switching is often just a matter of clicking the desired window or choosing it from the Window menu. To open a window for a different profile:

• Choose Profiles > MyProfile.
• Click the profile icon in the toolbar and choose the profile you want.

Once you have multiple Chrome profiles, the app will ask you which to open on each launch. From this screen, you can also remove a profile by clicking the vertical dot menu and choosing Delete. If you deselect “Show on startup,” Chrome will open the last used profile at startup. You can always access this screen by clicking the profile icon in the toolbar and choosing Manage Chrome Profiles.

Firefox

Although Firefox was the first browser to support profiles, they remain poorly integrated into its interface and can be confusing because each opens in another instance of Firefox— a new Firefox icon appears in the Dock for each. To create a new profile in Firefox:

1. Type about:profiles in the address bar to open the About Profiles page.
2. Click Create a New Profile.
3. Name your profile and optionally select a custom location for profile storage.
4. On the About Profiles page, in the listing for your new profile, click “Launch profile in new browser” to open a new instance of Firefox with it.
   
5. Configure this new instance of Firefox as desired.

Opening a new profile instance can be tricky since it’s essentially like opening another app, but there’s only one Firefox icon in your Applications folder. While there are command-line tricks to make switching easier, this is the simplest approach:

1. Type about:profiles in the address bar to open the About Profiles page.
2. In the listing for the profile, click “Launch profile in new browser.”

To simplify this process, open the About Profiles page in each profile and drag its proxy icon to the Bookmarks toolbar. That way, you can click the bookmark in the toolbar for quick access to About Profiles.

Once multiple profile instances are open, you can switch between them by clicking their windows or Dock icons.

Be Careful with External Links

Browser profiles struggle with one scenario: opening links from other apps. Imagine you’re busy in your Work profile but take a quick break to check your personal email. You receive a link from your bathroom designer with possible lighting options, so you click it. Since your browser is using your Work profile, the link opens there, and you have to transfer it manually to your Personal profile or risk muddying your organization.

However, this is a minor obstacle, given how beneficial browser profiles can be for organizing your online activities, whether you’re juggling multiple projects or simply keeping your work and personal browsing distinct.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

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The effort and inconvenience that different people are willing to endure also vary. Higher levels of security often necessitate significant effort and inconvenience. We have divided our list of suggestions—roughly organized from easiest to hardest—into two sections: actions we believe everyone should take and security measures mainly for those most concerned and willing to tolerate some fuss.

Before we delve into the details, it is important to remember that privacy and security are not the same thing. Privacy refers to the proper collection, use, and governance of personal data. Security, conversely, is concerned with protecting data from unauthorized access and malicious threats. It entails defending data against external dangers, while privacy ensures that the management and use of that data adhere to agreed-upon standards.

Security Improvements for Everyone

These actions are generally beneficial for most users. They don’t require much technical knowledge and can often be accomplished with easily accessible tools and settings:

• Keep apps and operating systems up to date: Nearly every operating system update from Apple addresses numerous security vulnerabilities, and the same is often true for major apps. Always ensure you’re running current versions to take advantage of all those security improvements.
• Enable FileVault: While all data on the internal SSDs of Macs with Apple silicon and Intel-based Macs with the T2 chip is automatically encrypted to prevent unauthorized access if the SSD is removed, it is automatically decrypted whenever the Mac boots, even before you log in. To link decryption to your user account, which makes your login password necessary to decrypt all data, enable FileVault in System Settings > Privacy & Security > FileVault. There are essentially no drawbacks.
• Improve your passcode: For nearly a decade, it has been easy to set a six-digit passcode on the iPhone and iPad, greatly enhancing security compared to the previous standard four-digit passcode (1 million possible combinations versus only 10,000). If you still use four digits, consider switching to six digits, a custom number of digits, or a custom alphanumeric passcode in Settings > Face ID/Touch ID & Passcode > Change Passcode > Passcode Options. Alphanumeric passcodes offer the highest level of security but are more challenging to type.
• Turn on biometric authentication and Stolen Device Protection: If you aren’t already using Face ID or Touch ID on your iPhone or iPad, that’s a mistake. Both provide significantly stronger security than repeatedly entering your passcode, which could be observed. Turn on biometric authentication and Apple’s Stolen Device Protection in Settings > Face/Touch ID & Passcode.
• Adopt strong password habits: If security matters at all to you, you must use a strong, unique password for each online account and never reuse a password. It’s easy and secure as long as you create and store passwords with a password manager like Apple’s Passwords or 1Password.
• Enable MFA whenever it’s available: Multi-factor authentication greatly enhances security, safeguarding you even if your password is compromised in a breach. It typically requires entering a six-digit code that you retrieve from an app or receive via text message. Apple’s Passwords and 1Password can both automatically enter MFA codes for many websites.
• Use an ad blocker: Much of today’s surveillance society relies on ads to track you. Anything you can do to block ads will enhance your privacy, so use ad blockers whenever possible. Highly regarded options include 1Blocker, AdGuard, NextDNS, and uBlock Origin.
• Enable privacy and security features in Web browsers: Safari can prevent cross-site tracking and hide your IP address, along with other privacy and security features. In Safari > Settings, review all the options in the Privacy and Security screens and enable those that are appropriate. (Keep cookies and JavaScript enabled; many sites won’t function properly without them.) If you don’t use Safari, choose Brave or Firefox instead of Google Chrome.
• Utilize secure DNS services: To enhance browsing privacy and protect against DNS leaks, configure your devices to use a privacy-focused DNS service like Cloudflare’s 1.1.1.1 or Quad9’s 9.9.9.9.
• Minimize app exposure: Be vigilant about iPhone or iPad apps that might be sharing information about you with data brokers without your knowledge. Specifically:
  • Turn off Settings > Privacy & Security > Tracking > Allow Apps to Request to Track.
  • Rescind location tracking permissions for all apps except those that require it, such as navigation or weather apps, in Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services.
  • Delete apps you’re not using to prevent them from spying on you.

Security Improvements for the Particularly Concerned

Implementing these actions may require extra steps, specialized knowledge, or significant changes in habits. They’re primarily for those with heightened concerns or those at greater risk, such as journalists, activists, and individuals handling sensitive data:

• Use independent search engines: Google and Microsoft are known for collecting information about their users. To keep your searches private, use a search engine that prioritizes privacy, such as DuckDuckGo, Brave Search, Kagi, or Startpage.
• Protect network traffic: While we used to recommend ensuring you were using secure HTTP (HTTPS) connections, that’s now the bare minimum. For greater privacy while browsing the Web with Safari, turn on iCloud Private Relay in Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud > Private Relay. (This requires an iCloud+ subscription and won’t encrypt traffic from most non-Apple apps.) More broadly, you can safeguard all your traffic by using a trusted VPN service like Mullvad VPN, NordVPN, or ProtonVPN.
• Activate Advanced Data Protection: End-to-end encryption (E2EE) keeps your online data private from everyone, including cloud providers. However, it requires you to manage your encryption keys, which means no one can help recover your data if you lose those keys. You can enable E2EE with Apple services using Advanced Data Protection; turn it on in Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud > Advanced Data Protection.
• Use encrypted messaging: The iMessage system used by Apple’s Messages app for blue bubble conversations is highly secure, particularly with Advanced Data Protection enabled. However, for the most secure messaging with E2EE, look to Signal. While WhatsApp also offers E2EE, its backups might not be encrypted, and its parent company, Meta, is one of the most egregious privacy abusers on the planet.
• Regularly review and revoke permissions: Periodically check and manage app permissions on your device to ensure that no apps have unnecessary access to sensitive information, such as your contacts or location. Work through the options in Settings/System Settings > Privacy & Security and revoke permissions for anything that seems inappropriate. Apps that require additional permissions will always prompt you again.
• Encrypt cloud-stored data: To ensure that cloud storage services like Box, Dropbox, Google Drive, and OneDrive cannot read your data, use the free and open source Cryptomator to encrypt it first.
• Use encrypted email: While it’s impossible to ensure that email will remain private because you can’t control your recipients’ actions, the most privacy-focused email services are ProtonMail and Tuta Mail. They employ E2EE for emails sent to other users of the same service and allow the encryption of email messages sent to any external recipient.
• Reduce reliance on cloud services: If you have general concerns about cloud services, consider exploring peer-to-peer alternatives that remove the need for a central provider. You can find peer-to-peer solutions for file storage, file sharing, chat and messaging, videoconferencing, collaborative documents, cloud-based notes, and more.
• Avoid social media: Posting on social media, especially on platforms owned by large corporations, allows those companies to create a comprehensive profile of you that is shared with advertisers and is vulnerable to data breaches. Further, any information you disclose about yourself could be exploited by hackers in social engineering attacks targeting your accounts. Consider replacing social media with independent forums devoted to your interests and private messaging spaces for friends and family.

Ultimately, enhancing privacy and security is your responsibility. Apple and other companies may offer tools to assist, but it’s up to you to implement them and stay vigilant against new threats. We’re also happy to provide advice and assistance.

Protect Your Digital Life with Confidence

Staying safe online doesn’t have to be complicated — and you don’t have to figure it out alone.

At MacTech Solutions, we’re passionate about helping you protect your digital life.

Whether you need help securing your Mac, your iPhone, or your online accounts, we’re here for you.

Stop by MacTech Solutions in Finishing Touch Plaza in Wichita Falls — and let’s make sure your digital world stays safe, private, and protected.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

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The post Protect Your Digital Life: Quick Privacy and Security Tips You Can Use Now first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

iPhone Mirroring Benefits

iPhone Mirroring provides a handful of benefits, including:

• Centralized notification management: Once you’ve set up iPhone Mirroring, notifications from your iPhone can also appear on your Mac, ensuring you stay informed while maintaining focus on your work.
• Increased productivity with a keyboard: Typing on a physical keyboard is faster and more efficient than using the iPhone’s virtual keyboard, making iPhone Mirroring a helpful tool for entering and editing lengthy texts.
• Reduced physical distractions: Keeping your iPhone out of sight helps you avoid being distracted by it. With iPhone Mirroring, you can access important apps and notifications without letting the physical iPhone capture your attention.
• Simplified file transfer: Certain apps allow file transfer between the iPhone and Mac using a straightforward drag-and-drop method.
• Access to iPhone-only apps on the Mac: Many apps are available only for iOS, and iPhone Mirroring lets you interact with them directly from your Mac, removing the need to switch devices.

iPhone Mirroring Requirements

A few requirements must be met before you can begin using iPhone Mirroring:

• Your iPhone must have iOS 18 or later, and your Mac needs macOS 15 Sequoia or later.
• Both devices must have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth turned on.
• The devices should be in close proximity and signed into the same Apple Account.
• Handoff must be enabled for the iPhone in Settings > General > AirPlay & Continuity and on the Mac in System Settings > General > AirDrop & Handoff.

Mac App Limitations

Once everything is set up correctly, launch the iPhone Mirroring app on your Mac. A few splash screens explain the basics during the first launch, and afterward, your iPhone will appear in a window. You can move it anywhere you wish and treat it like any other Mac app, with one notable exception—resizing. It does not have a green zoom button, and you cannot resize it by dragging the window edge, but it does offer three size options you can choose from the View menu.

iPhone Hardware Limitations

Using iOS and iPhone apps works pretty much as you’d expect, but there are some limitations. Notably, the iPhone camera and microphone aren’t available, although audio from the iPhone plays through the Mac. Face ID and Touch ID are also not accessible for obvious reasons, which may block access to apps and features protected by biometric authentication. There’s no way to access Notification Center or Control Center, nor to switch apps by swiping the Home indicator—presumably because those three swipes are special due to being at the edge of the iPhone screen. You cannot access the Lock Screen or perform any action that requires a physical button. Finally, you can use only one Continuity feature at a time, so other Continuity features like Universal Clipboard and AirDrop won’t function while you are using iPhone Mirroring.

Core iPhone Interactions

You’ll pick up the basic iPhone interactions quickly. Clicking is like tapping, Control-click acts like touch-and-hold, and swiping on a trackpad behaves like swiping on the iPhone screen. If your Mac has a mouse without swipe gestures instead of a trackpad, click and drag to swipe or use a scroll wheel (hold Shift to scroll horizontally with a scroll wheel). Buttons in the iPhone Mirroring window’s title bar take you back to the Home Screen and open the App Switcher—those actions involve swipes that would be difficult or impossible. Even easier are the keyboard shortcuts in the View menu for Home Screen (Command-1), App Switcher (Command-2), and Spotlight (Command-3).

File Transfer

Although the lack of Universal Clipboard prevents copying between your Mac and a mirrored iPhone, you can transfer files from apps that support it, like Files and Photos. Simply drag and drop between the Mac and the iPhone Mirroring app in either direction. With Files and Photos, it’s usually easier to use iCloud Drive in the Finder and the Mac version of Photos, but other apps may not be as well integrated.

Ending and Restarting Mirroring

Switching back to using the iPhone directly is simple—just unlock it to disconnect from the Mac. When you’re done, lock the iPhone and click the Connect or Resume button to resume.

Dealing with Multiple Macs and iPhones

Connecting an iPhone to multiple Macs is not an issue, although only one can use it at a time. To remove access for a Mac, use the iPhone to navigate to Settings > General > AirPlay & Continuity > iPhone Mirroring, tap Edit, and then tap the red delete button. If you have more than one iPhone available for iPhone Mirroring, you can select which one to use in System Settings > Desktop & Dock, just below the “Use iPhone widgets” setting—the menu appears only when the Mac detects multiple iPhones nearby.

On final note. In iPhone Mirroring > Settings, you can choose whether to require your Mac login for every connection or to authenticate automatically. Set it to “Ask every time” if your Mac is shared with others, if others know your Mac password, or if you want to enhance protection against potential malicious software. It’s more secure but slightly more inconvenient.

In the end, if you frequently find yourself reaching for your iPhone while working on your Mac or wish it were more accessible, try iPhone Mirroring. It’s an easy, effective way to work between the devices and reduce unnecessary interruptions.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

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The post How (and Why) to Use iPhone Mirroring on Your Mac first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

They have long had noise cancellation features, which we find helpful in open office environments and for turning down the volume on everything from airplanes to vacuum cleaners. The more recent addition of Adaptive mode, which bridges between Transparency and Noise Cancellation modes and changes with your surroundings, makes them useful in dynamic urban environments. The Loud Sound Reduction feature can be a godsend at concerts where the music would otherwise be painfully loud. Personalized Volume adjusts the volume of media in response to your environment, and although it can be a bit disconcerting, Conversation Awareness drops the media volume and reduces background noise when you start speaking to others.

However, the newest and most important feature of the AirPods Pro 2 comes with iOS 18.1: Hearing Health. Many people don’t realize they have hearing loss, so Apple now provides a clinically validated Hearing Test and a clinical-grade Hearing Aid feature that can compensate for mild to moderate hearing loss. Even if you don’t think you have any hearing problems, we recommend taking Apple’s hearing test so you have a baseline to compare against future tests.

Here’s how to check your hearing and get started with the hearing assistance and protection features. Before you start, make sure you’ve paired your AirPods Pro with your iPhone and haven’t been exposed to loud noises for at least 24 hours. (It can take that long for your hearing to return to normal.)

Take a Hearing Test

The Hearing Test has three parts: setup, the actual test, and presenting the results. In the setup phase, the iPhone guides you through finding a quiet place to take the test, inserting your AirPods Pro correctly, and testing the fit.

The fit test is important because the AirPods Pro silicone ear tips help block outside noise, allowing the earbuds to boost or lower the volume of particular sounds or frequencies to improve audio clarity. The AirPods Pro come with four sizes of ear tips, from extra small to large (medium is the default), and the fit test helps you determine which ear tip best combines efficacy and comfort.

To start the test, open the iPhone’s Settings app and tap the name of your AirPods Pro—that option appears only when the case is open or they’re in your ears. In the AirPods screen, tap Take a Hearing Test. The test involves tapping the screen every time you hear a pulse of three tones. As a game, it’s boring but not easy—most people will probably be able to hear the first few tones, but subsequent ones become significantly more difficult to discern. Don’t worry if you miss a tone because you’ll have multiple chances to hear each one. The test focuses first on one ear and then the other.

At the end, the test presents your results. dBHL stands for decibels Hearing Level and indicates the softest sounds you can hear at various frequencies. If you have little to no hearing loss—dBHL under 20—there’s no need to do anything more. dBHL numbers between 20 and 40 suggest mild hearing loss and indicate that you may have difficulty hearing soft or distant sounds, such as whispers or quiet conversations. Numbers from 41 to 55 indicate moderate hearing loss, which can make it difficult to understand normal speech, particularly in loud environments. For higher levels of hearing loss, or if you’re experiencing noticeable problems, consult an audiologist.

Turn On Hearing Assistance

If your hearing test suggests mild to moderate hearing loss, the AirPods Pro Hearing Aid feature can help. It uses the hearing test results to adjust what you hear to improve voice and audio clarity. You can turn it on at the end of the hearing test if indicated, or at any time in Settings > AirPods Pro > Hearing Assistance. (If your results indicate little to no hearing loss, the trick to turning on the Hearing Aid feature is to tap “Learn About Hearing Aid” at the end of the test or by selecting a hearing test result and then tapping Next.)

Apple has created a particularly flexible solution here. In the Hearing Aid section, you can control whether the AirPods Pro adjust external sounds for greater clarity. To tweak the specifics, tap Adjustments and use the amplification, balance, tone, and ambient noise reduction sliders. The Conversation Boost switch enhances face-to-face conversations by focusing on the person in front of you.

Also helpful is Media Assist, which uses your hearing test results to improve music, podcasts, and other audio played through the AirPods Pro. Separate switches let you apply it to Music and Video along with Calls and FaceTime.

Improve and Protect Your Hearing

If you own a pair of AirPods Pro 2, we highly recommend that you take a hearing test and try the Hearing Aid feature. Even if you have little or no hearing loss, you may find that the Media Assist option makes your music sound better. It’s easy to test—just play a song you love (turn it on from Control Center) and toggle Media Assist on and off while it plays.

Also, we’ve started wearing the AirPods Pro in situations where we might not have thought to in the past. It’s obvious that the Noise Cancellation mode would be helpful on an airplane, but we also use it to block unwanted noises to aid our concentration at work. We’ve also found that Transparency and Adaptive modes can be helpful on city streets and in loud restaurants. Plus, because Loud Sound Protection is automatically enabled in Transparency and Adaptive modes, it lets us enjoy front row seats at a concert without worrying about our hearing or suffering from ringing ears the next day.

We know that AirPods Pro aren’t for everyone. Many people prefer the AirPods 4, which provide some noise cancellation without blocking the ear canal with silicone ear tips. But they can’t compete with the AirPods Pro for noise cancellation and lack the new Hearing Health features. Between the Hearing Test and Hearing Aid features and how the AirPods Pro can protect and enhance hearing, we think they will become a more common sight among older adults who otherwise wouldn’t consider wearing earbuds in public. If you have questions or concerns about your hearing, give them a try.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Julija Matuka)

The post Improve Your Hearing with the AirPods Pro 2 and iOS 18 first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

The big win in upgrading now is that Apple has released betas of most of its promised Apple Intelligence features for Macs with Apple silicon. In other posts, we’ve looked at the artificial intelligence-driven features that arrived in macOS 15.1 and macOS 15.2, including:

• Writing Tools for proofreading, rewriting, summarizing, and composing text
• Clean Up in Photos for removing background objects, plus natural language searches
• Audio recording in Notes, with transcription and summarization
• Summaries replacing snippets in Mail message lists, plus summarization of long messages or threads
• A Smart Reply feature in Mail and Messages for quick replies
• Notification summaries that reduce distractions from chatty apps
• Integration of ChatGPT with Siri
• Image Playground for generating custom images based on your descriptions

Sequoia has been quite stable, with two caveats. First, there have been some networking issues related to Apple’s built-in firewall and VPNs; we don’t yet know if macOS 15.2 resolves these. Second, macOS 15.2 introduced a new bug that causes problems for backup apps trying to make bootable backups on Apple silicon Macs. Although that’s annoying and will likely be fixed shortly, Apple has been deprecating bootable backups for years in the name of security. The modern approach is to install macOS from macOS Recovery, then use Migration Assistant to restore from Time Machine or a data-only backup.

Apple will continue to release macOS updates in 2025. If past performance is any indication, you can expect macOS 15.3 in January, 15.4 in March, and 15.5 in May with a few new features, plus a few security and bug fix updates in between.

That said, you can put off the Sequoia upgrade as long as you’re running macOS 13 Ventura or macOS 14 Sonoma and are staying current with Apple’s security updates. Earlier macOS versions no longer receive security fixes, rendering them more vulnerable to attack. Possible reasons to continue delaying include:

• You’re too busy. The upgrade process will take a few hours, plus some additional time to configure everything properly afterward. When you are ready to upgrade, aim for when a little downtime will be convenient.
• You rely on incompatible software. The jump from Ventura or Sonoma to Sequoia isn’t a big one, so most modern apps should have been updated by now. But if a necessary app is known to have issues, you’ll either need to wait for an update or switch to an alternative that works.

Sequoia may not transform your experience of using a Mac, but it has new features you might appreciate beyond Apple Intelligence. The most noticeable is probably iPhone mirroring, which lets you use your iPhone in a window on your Mac. Also potentially interesting are its new window tiling features that let you quickly arrange windows, the standalone Passwords app, Highlights and Distraction Control in Safari, and collapsible headers in Notes.

Before You Upgrade

Once you’ve decided to upgrade to Sequoia, you have three main tasks:

• Update apps: Make sure all your apps are as up-to-date as possible. If you regularly put off updates, now’s the time to let them complete so you have Sequoia-compatible versions.
  
• Clear space: Sequoia may need as much as 25 GB of free space to upgrade, and the Sequoia installer itself is nearly 15 GB, so we recommend making sure you have at least 50 GB free. Don’t cut this close—you should always have at least 10–20% free space for virtual memory, cache files, and breathing room. Check in Sonoma or Ventura by choosing System Settings > General > Storage; in earlier versions of macOS, choose About This Mac from the Apple menu and click Storage. System Settings provides quick ways to free up space. Another easy option for iCloud Drive users is to Control-click large folders and choose Remove Download to “evict” the local versions of those files temporarily; Box, Dropbox, and Google Drive have similar features.
  
• Make a backup: Never, ever install an update to macOS without ensuring you have at least one current backup first. In an ideal world, you’d have an updated Time Machine backup, a data-only duplicate, and an Internet backup. That way, if something goes wrong, you can quickly revert.
  

Upgrading

After completing those tasks, ensure you won’t need your Mac for a few hours. There’s no telling exactly how long the upgrade will take, so never start an upgrade if you need the Mac soon.

To initiate the upgrade, open System Settings > General > Software Update in Sonoma or Ventura (System Preferences > Software Update in previous versions of macOS), click the Upgrade Now button, and follow the instructions. If you’d like more guidance, check out Joe Kissell’s ebook Take Control of Sequoia.

After You Upgrade

Part of the reason to set aside plenty of time for your Sequoia upgrade is that there are usually cleanup tasks afterward. We can’t predict precisely what you’ll run into, depending on what version of macOS you’re running now and what apps you use, but here are a few situations we’ve noticed in the past:

• macOS may need to update its authentication setup by asking for your Apple ID password, your Mac’s password, and, if you have another Mac, its password. Don’t worry that malware has compromised your Mac—these authentication prompts are fine.
• Some apps may have to ask for various permissions even though you previously granted them. Again, that’s fine.
• If you use your Apple Watch to unlock your Mac and apps (and you should; it’s great!), you may need to re-enable that in System Settings > Touch ID & Password (or Login Password on a non-Touch ID-enabled Mac). In older versions of macOS, it was in System Preferences > Security & Privacy > General.
• If you use Gmail, Google Calendar, or other Google services, you may need to log in to your Google account again.
• Websites that usually remember your login state may require you to log in again. However, if you’re using a password manager like Apple’s Passwords or 1Password, that’s easy.
• You may have to re-enable text message forwarding to your Mac. You do this on your iPhone in Settings > Messages > Text Message Forwarding.

With all that housekeeping done, it’s time to check out all the new features in Sequoia!

(Featured image by Apple)

The post Feel Free to Upgrade to macOS 15 Sequoia When You’re Ready first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

If the document you’re previewing has multiple pages, you’ll see thumbnails along the right side that you can scroll through using your mouse or trackpad, or by pressing the Page Up/Page Down keys. But you aren’t limited to just viewing a file: click the Open With button to open the file in its default app, or click the Share button in the upper right to send it to someone else via email, Messages, or another sharing service. PDFs and images will also show the Markup button that lets you annotate the file directly, and images have a Rotate button.

If you need to scan through a set of files in a folder, you can press the arrow keys while the Quick Look window remains open—how you move among the files depends on the Finder window’s view. In List view, for instance, using the Up and Down arrow keys can be a great way to browse through a collection of pictures. You can even interact with the Finder while using Quick Look, which means you can delete an unwanted photo by pressing Command-Delete while previewing it.

Quick Look works well for evaluating or comparing multiple files. Select a bunch of files and press the Space bar to open them all in Quick Look. The Left and Right arrow keys let you cycle through your selection; there are also Back and Forward arrow buttons at the top left of the Quick Look window. To the right, you’ll see a Thumbnail button that displays the selected files in a grid—click any thumbnail to focus on just that item.

To remove the distraction of your desktop, click the Zoom button in a Quick Look window. If you have multiple files selected, you can even start a simple slideshow from the zoomed Quick Look window—it’s a quick way to show off a folder of images. Another way to get to a zoomed Quick Look window is to select the files in the Finder and press Option-Space.

What file types does Quick Look work with? Not everything, but out of the box, Quick Look supports text files, RTF files, HTML files, images, audio, video, PDFs, iWork documents (Keynote, Numbers, and Pages), Microsoft Office files, fonts, and more. Third-party apps can extend Quick Look to support proprietary formats, and developers have released independent Quick Look extensions. Many people appreciate these three extensions:

• Folder Preview (free) displays the contents of folders in Quick Look.
• BetterZip (free for viewing) lets you look inside Zip archives and other compressed files.
• Peek ($7.99) not only supports 530 file types but also lets you copy, search, navigate, and more directly within the Quick Look window.

Although it’s best known in the Finder, Quick Look is available elsewhere on the Mac, including the examples below, so it’s always worth selecting what you want to preview and pressing the Space bar to see if it works.

• Spotlight: Preview search results to see if they’re what you want
• Open dialogs: Preview files before you open them
• Time Machine: Preview versions of files before restoring them
• File transfer apps: Preview files on remote servers before downloading
• Messages: Preview files added to conversations before opening them
• Mail: Preview attachments to email messages

To manage your Quick Look extensions, open System Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions, scroll to the bottom, and click the ⓘ button next to Quick Look.

Finally, note that if your Mac has a trackpad, you can invoke Quick Look by force-touching a Finder icon (press deeply until you feel a click) instead of pressing the Space bar.

Quick Look takes just moments to learn, but it can save you hours of time poring through files on your Mac!

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/megaflopp)

The post Use Quick Look to Preview Files and Folders in the Finder, Spotlight, and Open Dialogs first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Much of this is possible because people use apps that reveal their location to data brokers, who package the information and resell it to companies like Babel Street. Apple does have an advantage here—Atlas estimated they could locate roughly 80% of Android phones but only 25% of iPhones. That’s due to Apple’s App Tracking Transparency feature, introduced in iOS 14.5, which requires apps to get permission from users before tracking them for third-party advertising purposes. Unfortunately, many people unthinkingly grant such permissions, and location and identification data can also leak out in other ways.

Although it’s difficult to avoid being tracked by data brokers entirely, you can drastically reduce the likelihood and frequency of tracking, which helps ensure that any location information that does become available isn’t sufficient to identify you personally. Your employer may also consider your location to be sensitive information and want you to restrict it to the extent possible. To achieve this, you’ll need to adjust settings in several parts of Settings > Privacy & Security on your iPhone (and iPad, if you regularly use it in multiple locations).

Turn Off Allow Apps to Request to Track

You’ll find the most important setting in Settings > Privacy & Security > Tracking. At the top of the screen is a switch labeled Allow Apps to Request to Track. Make sure that is off! If it has been on in the past, apps that have requested permission will appear below.

By preventing apps from even asking if they can track you, you keep them from sharing a unique identifier associated with your iPhone with other apps and websites. Otherwise, advertisers can follow you from app to app and website to website, gathering information about you—often including your physical location—as you go about your life.

Don’t let apps persuade you to turn this setting on or allow them to track you. Apple’s rules explicitly forbid them from reducing functionality to those who refuse to allow tracking.

Allow Location Access Only for Apps That Need It

While you can turn off Allow Apps to Request to Track with a single switch, preventing apps from seeing your location requires more targeted work. Although Settings > Privacy & Security > Location Services has a big Location Services switch, turning that off will drastically reduce the utility of your iPhone. You won’t be able to get directions from Maps, tag photos with their location, share your location with family members, and much more.

Instead, for each app in the list, determine what level of location access you want to grant based on its function and description of why it needs access. Grant the minimal level of access necessary, which varies by app. Navigation apps need location access to work at all. Camera apps need it to geotag photos. Weather apps use it to provide custom weather reports and extreme weather notifications. But do you want to give a social media app access to your location at all times?

Apple provides five location access levels:

• Never: Choose Never for any app with questionable explanations of why location access is requested.
• Ask Next Time or When I Share: If you’re unsure if you want to allow or deny location access for an app, select this option. The app will prompt you the next time it wants your location, enabling you to make an informed decision based on your actions.
• While Using the App: For most apps you want to allow to see your location, choose While Using the App. It’s entirely reasonable that a location-requiring app be allowed to determine your location while you’re using it.
• While Using the App or Widgets: This option only appears for apps with widgets; choose it only if you use a widget that needs location access.
• Always: Grant Always access only to apps that generate location-related notifications when the app is not open. The most common example is a weather app that provides notifications of incoming storms.

The Precise Location option becomes available if you allow location access for an app. Turn it on only if the app needs to know your location within 15 to 200 feet (5 to 60 meters). An Uber or Lyft driver will need to know where to pick you up, for instance, so those apps should have Precise Location turned on, as should navigation and camera apps. For most others, turn off Precise Location. Your approximate location—a variable radius between 2.5 to 12 miles (4 and 20 kilometers)—is usually sufficient to locate you in the right part of the world.

Block Bluetooth and Local Network Access for Apps That Don’t Need It

Apps can use Bluetooth to infer your general location through interactions with other Bluetooth devices and movement patterns, so Apple requires apps to ask to use Bluetooth. As a result, just as with location, you should go through the apps listed in Settings > Privacy & Security > Bluetooth and revoke permission from any that don’t seem as though they should need it. Most will be legitimate—an app designed to communicate with a Bluetooth-connected device, for instance. Any app that needs access to Bluetooth and doesn’t have it should prompt you when you next open it.

Similarly, Apple now requires apps to request permission to use your local network. For the most part, these requests are reasonable—apps may need to discover network-connected devices like routers, printers, speakers, smart home gadgets, and more. Or games may need to discover other players on the network. However, because your network can reveal information about your location, it’s best to revoke access for any apps that don’t seem as though they should need it. There’s no harm in doing so; they’ll ask again if they need access.

Ultimately, all we can do is stay vigilant about what we’re allowing on our devices, encourage Apple to add even more privacy protections, and lobby our elected representatives for legal protection. It’s unconscionable that private companies can gather extensive location data on hundreds of millions of citizens.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/Chayada Jeeratheepatanont)

The post Perturbed by Location Tracking Revelations? Here’s How to Protect Yourself first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Starting in macOS 15 Sequoia, iOS 18, iPadOS 18, and visionOS 2, Passwords is now a real app rather than being trapped inside Safari, System Settings, and Settings. If you have resisted using a password manager or don’t wish to continue subscribing to an alternative, give Apple’s Passwords a try. It makes creating, maintaining, and entering passwords faster, easier, and more secure than doing it by hand. Those already using a password manager can export their accounts and import into Passwords.

What You’ll Find in Passwords

We’ll focus on the Mac version here, but the other versions are nearly identical apart from their screen sizes.

The left-hand sidebar, reminiscent of Reminders, provides categories of accounts:

• All: Select All to see all your accounts, regardless of what shared group they may be in.
• Passkeys: If you have any passkeys for large websites like Apple, Google, and others, they’ll appear here.
• Codes: Passwords can create, store, and enter two-factor authentication codes for sites that support them. If you need to look one up manually because Passwords couldn’t autofill it, you’ll find the associated account here.
• Wi-Fi: This category contains stored passwords for all the known Wi-Fi networks on your device. Because known Wi-Fi networks aren’t synced between devices, the number of these will vary between your devices.
• Security: If you have any accounts with weak passwords, accounts you previously shared and stopped sharing, or accounts whose passwords were leaked in a security breach, they’ll appear here. Edit these accounts and click the Change Password button to start the process; when the password changes, they’ll disappear from this category.
• Deleted: Any accounts you delete stay here for 30 days before being deleted for good. You can delete any of these accounts immediately or restore them to their previous group.
• Shared Groups: If you use Family Sharing, you automatically get a Family Passwords group to simplify sharing important accounts with your family members. But you can also share accounts with other groups of Apple device owners. To move an account to a group, choose it from the Group pop-up menu.

The middle pane lists the accounts in the selected category. You can sort the list using the menu with vertical arrows, search for a specific account, and manually add a new one with the + button. Otherwise, scroll through the list and click an account to view it in the right-hand pane.

At the top of the right-hand pane is an AirDrop button and an Edit button. Click AirDrop to share an account with someone nearby or Edit to make changes or set up a two-factor verification code. If you want to copy information, click the User Name, Password, Verification Code, or Website item to get a Copy menu. The password becomes visible when you mouse over it. Clicking Website also offers an Open Website option and lets you add more sites where the password should autofill.

Setup Requirements

Most people shouldn’t need to do anything to start using Passwords. However, if you have trouble, check the following items:

• Turn on Password AutoFill: If your device isn’t entering passwords for you, turn on AutoFill Passwords and Passkeys in Settings/System Settings > General > AutoFill & Passwords. Also, ensure that Passwords is enabled in the AutoFill From section if multiple password managers are installed.
• Turn on iCloud Keychain: If you want your passwords to sync securely among your devices, which makes life a lot easier, go to Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud > Passwords and turn on Sync This Device.
• Set up iCloud Passwords for other browsers: Apart from Safari, Chromium-based Web browsers (Arc, Brave, Google Chrome, Microsoft Edge, etc.) can access and autofill your saved passwords if you install Apple’s iCloud Passwords Chrome extension. (There’s also now an iCloud Passwords add-on for Firefox.) The overall experience is not as seamless as in Safari, requiring a once-per-launch code, and you have to create new accounts in Safari or manually in Passwords, but it works.
  
• Configure settings: Choose Passwords > Settings (or look in Settings > Apps > Passwords for iOS 18 and iPadOS 18) to access options. Generally speaking, it’s fine to keep them all turned on.
  

If you have additional questions, check Apple’s documentation for detailed instructions for all the platforms on which Passwords runs. But realistically, Passwords is easy to use, and although the app itself is new, the underlying password management features and syncing have been in place for years, so they’re stable and reliable  

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/designer491)

The post Passwords Becomes a Real App in macOS 15 Sequoia, iOS 18, and iPadOS 18 first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Although Control Center has changed a bit over the years, it provided relatively minimal customization options until iOS 18 and iPadOS 18. Previously, in Settings > Control Center, you could choose which controls appeared and in what order, though a few essential controls always appeared at the top.

With this year’s operating system updates for the iPhone and iPad, Apple decided to give us nearly free rein to personalize Control Center, even allowing us to add multiple pages of controls. While some people will go wild and utterly reimagine what Control Center can do for them, we expect most to employ more modest tweaks that make it slightly easier to use.

Here’s what you can do in iOS 18 and iPadOS 18:

Learn the basics of getting around in Control Center: 

• Open Control Center: Swipe down from the upper-right corner of the screen.
• Move between Control Center pages: During the initial swipe to open Control Center, keep swiping down to navigate to later Control Center pages, represented by tiny icons on the right side of the screen. Once Control Center is open, swipe up or down anywhere on the screen to move between pages or tap the icons.
• Use controls: Tapping an icon in Control Center usually either toggles a setting (like Orientation Lock and Silent Mode) or opens an app (like Magnifier or Wallet). Many display additional options when you touch and hold them (tap the Focus icon to toggle Do Not Disturb; touch and hold it to access more options, each of which offers even more settings). A few controls allow direct manipulation (like Now Playing, Volume, and Brightness).
  

Add, organize, and remove items from Control Center:

• Enter and leave editing mode: Tap the + icon in the upper-left corner, or touch and hold on any empty part of the Control Center screen, much like you enter wiggle mode on the Home Screen. You can swipe between screens in editing mode as well. When you’re done, tap any empty area to leave editing mode.
• Add a control: In editing mode, tap Add a Control at the bottom of the screen, search or browse for available controls, and tap the one you want to add to the current screen. Note that many apps now provide controls, vastly increasing the actions available from Control Center.
  
• Move a control: Touch and hold a control and drag it to the desired location. While holding the control, drag it to the bottom or top of the screen to move it to a different page.
• Add a new page: When you’re in editing mode, a new empty page always appears at the bottom. To make it stick around after you exit editing mode, add or move a control to it.
• Resize a control: If a control has a curved resize handle on the lower-right corner of its icon, drag that handle to make the control larger or smaller. Most offer only 1-slot, 2-slot, and 4-slot sizes, with the latter two adding the name—we’re partial to the 2-slot size because we have trouble recognizing little icons. (Control Center would benefit from an option to display names under 1-slot icons as it does on the Add a Control screen.) A few controls, notably Now Playing, are more malleable—it offers two 4-slot sizes, an 8-slot size, a 16-slot size, and a full-page 32-slot size.
  
• Delete a control: To remove a control, tap the – button in the upper-left corner of the icon.
• Reset the layout to the default: It’s easy to go overboard and end up with a mad scientist layout. To return to the default set of controls, go to Settings > Control Center > Reset Control Center.

Take advantage of extra Control Center tips and settings:

• Check privacy status alerts: In the middle of the screen, you may see one or more small icons and an app name ➊. That indicates the app has permission to do things like track your location, use the camera, or record with the mic. Tap that area to see more details.
• Power down the device: Touch and hold the power button at the upper-right corner of the screen ➋. It’s similar to holding the physical side button and one of the volume buttons for a few seconds, except the physical buttons also provide sliders for viewing your Medical ID and making an Emergency SOS call. Even if you cancel the power-off action, you must enter your passcode to re-enable FaceID.
  
• Turn off Control Center access in apps: If you accidentally invoke Control Center in apps because you want to swipe near the top right of the screen, go to Settings > Control Center and turn off Access Within Apps.

It’s easy to become overwhelmed with Control Center’s customization possibilities. There’s no harm in sticking with the default layout, but our initial advice is to think about what you use Control Center for now and make sure those actions are well-represented by icons on the first page. Also, if you have trouble remembering what particular icons do, resize them to the 2-slot size so you can see their names. Later on, you can look through the full list of available controls and add those that seem appealing.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/yacobchuk)

The post In iOS 18 and iPadOS 18, Control Center Is Now Highly Customizable first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Apple gives everyone 5 GB of storage for free, which is enough for core services, like iCloud Keychain, and to try the other services. However, those who wish to take full advantage of iCloud Photos and iCloud Drive, in particular, must subscribe to iCloud+. Along with extra storage, iCloud+ subscribers can use:

• iCloud Private Relay, which blocks tracking of Safari traffic, DNS queries, and most non-HTTP Web traffic
• Hide My Email, which creates random, unique email addresses that automatically forward to your inbox
• Custom Email Domains, which lets you register your own custom email domain and use it in a personalized email address

For now, though, we’ll focus on storage. Apple’s iCloud+ rates are similar to those for storage at Google Drive and Microsoft OneDrive, though the specifics vary slightly by service. Apple charges:

• 50 GB: $0.99 per month
• 200 GB: $2.99 per month
• 2 TB: $9.99 per month
• 6 TB: $29.99 per month
• 12 TB: $59.99 per month

Audit Your Storage Needs

How much you should get depends on how much data you wish to upload to start and how quickly you expect that amount to grow. For most people, iCloud Photos consumes more storage space than anything else, although syncing your Desktop and Documents folders between Macs using iCloud can also chew up space.

If you’re not currently using iCloud, use File > Get Info to determine the size of your Photos Library (located in your Pictures folder), and do the same for your Desktop and Documents folders if you want to sync them. You can also anticipate iPhone and iPad backups consuming up to 20 gigabytes or more.

Remember that you can share iCloud+ storage space with people in your Family Sharing group. Checking how much space others in your family would also like to use is worthwhile.

Get Started with iCloud+

Subscribe to iCloud+ in Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud > Upgrade to iCloud+. (In pre-2024 versions of Apple’s operating system, tap Manage Account Storage and Change Storage Plan.)

Then, you can turn on iCloud Photos in Photos > Settings > iCloud on the Mac or Settings > Apps > Photos on the iPhone and iPad. (We recommend having one Mac use “Download Originals to this Mac” so you have a local copy of everything.) If it’s compelling for you, turn on Desktop and Documents folder syncing in System Settings > Your Name > iCloud > iCloud Drive on each of the Macs you want to participate—you don’t need to do anything on iPhones or iPads because everything from your Macs automatically appears in the iOS Files app. The initial sync, which uploads and deduplicates everything, can take days, depending on the upstream bandwidth of your Internet connection.

Once you’re set up, you can see and manage all the apps and services using iCloud. Go to Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud, and next to Saved to iCloud, tap See All. Tap any app to see more information and change its settings.

Running Low on Storage Space

Like a physical drive, your iCloud account can run out of space. When that happens, you can delete data or pay for more space. To see how much you’re using and how that breaks down across different apps, open Settings/System Settings > Your Name > iCloud and, at the top, tap Storage or click Manage. You can then drill down to see more details about each app. For Photos, iCloud Drive, Backups, and Messages, Apple provides suggestions for removing large files to save significant amounts of space quickly. Most other apps offer only an option to delete all your data. Generally speaking, you should delete an app’s data only if you don’t anticipate ever using the app again.

As you get close to your space limit, your devices will prompt you to upgrade so you don’t encounter failures caused by a lack of space. Unsurprisingly, Apple makes it easy to upgrade to a larger tier.

Although there’s nothing exciting about online cloud storage, having more iCloud+ storage significantly improves the experience for those with multiple Apple devices who would appreciate a seamless photo experience with iCloud Photos, accessing their files anywhere, and backing up their iPhones and iPads without needing to connect to a Mac. iCloud storage works well and is reasonably economical for what you get.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image with background by iStock.com/wing-wing)

The post Setting Up and Managing iCloud+ Storage first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

App Failures

The most common problems occur in apps, where you have to worry about crashes and file corruption. (Cosmetic bugs and broken features are annoying, but apart from reporting them, there’s nothing you can do about them and they shouldn’t cause you to lose work.) To protect yourself from crashes and corruption, we recommend the following:

• Save new files immediately: Although many apps auto-save, not all do. Whenever you start a new file, save it immediately and frequently as you work. That way, a crash can’t cause you to lose everything you’ve done.
  
• Use always-on backup software: Backup software like Time Machine and Backblaze run throughout the day, making versioned backups that let you restore earlier versions of a file. Those backups can be a lifesaver if your document becomes corrupted.
• Make manual versions of critical files: For documents where losing work would threaten your continued employment, we recommend making manual versions at least daily, preferably on a cloud storage service. Append a version number to each file, and keep all the versions until you complete the project.

Connectivity Failures

As more of our work has moved online or requires access to online resources, always-available connectivity has become necessary. Many people feel incapable of getting things done without Internet access. Here are some workarounds:

• Be able to switch between Wi-Fi and Ethernet: If one method of connecting to your local network fails, switching to the other can let you get on with your work with minimal interruption. A wireless access point failure could send you to wired Ethernet, or Ethernet cable damage could make Wi-Fi the only option. One shortcut for this is to keep both network adapters active in System Settings > Network, so the Mac can use either.
  
• Turn on a personal hotspot: If your Internet connection goes down, the fastest way to get your Mac back online may be to connect to your iPhone’s personal hotspot. Set it up in Settings > Cellular > Personal Hotspot and choose it from your Mac’s Wi-Fi menu.
  
• Identify a public hotspot: Assuming you have a Mac laptop, the better part of valor may be to go somewhere with Internet access, whether a coffee shop, the public library, or the house of a friend or family member. If your problem falls outside business hours, you might even be able to access a public network from a nearby parked car.
• Purchase backup networking hardware: Organizations should maintain backups of their networking gear. In the event of hardware failure, being able to swap a backup router, access point, switch, or cable into place will minimize downtime. Make sure to record your networking configurations so you can configure the new devices quickly.

Storage Failures

Historically, the most failure-prone aspect of a Mac was its hard drive because of its moving parts and insanely tight tolerances. Flash storage used by solid-state drives is far more reliable and resilient to physical bumps and drops. However, it’s still in constant flux as macOS and apps constantly read and write data, so software bugs can result in directory errors and other forms of corruption. We recommend a three-part backup strategy to protect against storage failures—make sure to dedicate drives for backups rather than using them for general storage.

• Back up with Time Machine: Time Machine works well and is tightly integrated into macOS. Use it to create versioned backups of your data so you can restore either individual files or your entire drive.
  
• Make nightly duplicates: Bootable duplicates that could take over for a dysfunctional boot drive used to be an essential part of a Mac backup strategy, but the difficulty of making them and booting a Mac from an external drive has reduced their utility. Nevertheless, the fastest and easiest way to restore data is often by copying it from a duplicate. Duplicates also provide secondary backups if something were to go wrong with your Time Machine drive. Carbon Copy Cloner and SuperDuper are the most popular backup apps for duplicates.
  
• Maintain Internet or offsite backups: In the event of fire, flood, or theft causing the loss of both your Mac and your backup, an offsite backup is a must. The easiest and most reliable method of making a backup somewhere else is an online backup service like Backblaze or Crashplan.
  

Overall Mac Failures

Macs may be reliable, but they’re still vulnerable to physical damage, particularly laptops you carry with you all the time. Bumps and drops can damage a screen or internal connectors that connect the keyboard and trackpad. You can do a few things to minimize the impact of a broken Mac.

• Use the desktop/laptop approach: Although Mac laptops are powerful and expandable enough for all but the most intensive tasks, supplementing a powerful desktop Mac with a less expensive laptop gives you more flexibility and provides a backup if your primary Mac fails.
• Maintain an extra keyboard, trackpad, and display: Getting your work done requires a functional keyboard, trackpad or mouse, and monitor. If any of those accessories were to fail, having an extra one around would let you get back to work with minimal fuss.
• Keep an old or extra Mac as a backup: Those relying on a single Mac should consider keeping an older Mac around as a backup if you have to send your current Mac to Apple for repair. This approach works only if your old Mac can run your current apps. An organization might maintain a backup Mac that could be temporarily swapped in for any employee’s broken Mac.
• Borrow a Mac from a colleague, friend, or family member: If you don’t have an extra Mac that’s sufficiently capable for your work needs, perhaps someone you know does. It’s easy to create a new user account that will keep your data and theirs separate and private. Start in System Settings > Users & Groups.
• Remember Apple’s 14-day return policy: If all else fails, remember that you can buy a Mac from Apple (in person or online) and return it with its included accessories and packaging within 14 days for a full refund. It’s a generous policy that shouldn’t be abused, but it could be a lifesaver if you’re under deadline when your Mac dies.

Of course, you’re welcome to call us for advice about working around any of these tech failures, but these suggestions should get you back in the saddle quickly and with minimal loss of work.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/fizkes)

Social Media: Macs may be more reliable than ever, but they still suffer from hardware and software failures. Follow our advice to minimize the impact of inevitable failures.

The post How to Minimize Downtime and Lost Work from Tech Failures first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

1. Update your old iPhone to the latest version of iOS. If you have an Apple Watch, update it to the latest version of watchOS. This process can take some time, so it may be best done overnight before you move data to your new iPhone.
2. Make sure you know your Apple ID and password, and if you have an Apple Watch, its passcode. You will likely have to enter them at least once during this process.
3. Back up your old iPhone to iCloud or your Mac. (If you back up to a Mac, be sure to encrypt the backup, or else it won’t include saved passwords, Wi-Fi settings, browsing history, Health data, and call history.) Or back up to both, for safety’s sake. We prefer iCloud backups because they’re easier and don’t introduce additional variables, like flaky USB cables. If you don’t usually back up to iCloud, Apple will give you temporary iCloud storage to make a backup when moving to a new iPhone. To initiate an iCloud backup, go to Settings > Your Name > iCloud > iCloud Backup and tap Back Up Now.
   
4. If you have an Apple Watch, you don’t need to unpair it from your old iPhone at this point in the process. (Later, if the automatic transfer has not worked, you can unpair it manually and pair it again later. If you end up taking the manual route and have a cellular Apple Watch, you’ll be asked if you want to keep or remove your plan. If you’re keeping your Apple Watch to re-pair with your new iPhone, keep the plan.)
5. You shouldn’t need to worry about transferring a SIM card. If you ordered your new iPhone through Apple and connected to your cellular carrier account during purchase, activating the new iPhone should cause it to take over your phone number. The same should be true if you’ve purchased directly through your carrier. Besides, it’s likely that iPhone 16 models sold in the US will rely on eSIM and lack SIM trays like the iPhone 15, so only non-US users might need to transfer the SIM card from the old iPhone to the new one. Even then, it’s better to contact your carrier and get them to activate the new SIM in the new iPhone because old SIMs don’t always support all current cellular features, such as full 5G support.
6. Transfer your data, settings, apps, and purchased content in one of these three ways. None of them will be quick, despite the first one’s name, so initiate the transfer only when you have plenty of time:
   • Quick Start: With the Quick Start feature, content from your old iPhone copies directly from your old iPhone to your new one. We recommend this technique because it’s more likely to preserve app logins, something that’s less true when restoring from an iCloud backup. Put your iPhones next to each other (plugged into power), use the old iPhone to scan the animation on the new one, and then follow the rest of the steps.
     
   • iCloud: With this technique, the new iPhone will download your content from your old iPhone’s iCloud backup. Once you’ve joined a Wi-Fi network on the new iPhone and tapped the Restore from iCloud Backup button, you’ll have to select the correct backup—likely the most recent one you just made. Keep your new iPhone plugged into power the entire time to ensure that all your content syncs during this step.
   • Finder or iTunes: With this approach, you’ll restore your old iPhone’s content from a backup made to your Mac. Connect your new iPhone to your Mac using an appropriate cable, open a Finder window (or iTunes on an old Mac), select your device in the left-hand sidebar, click Restore Backup, and choose the appropriate backup—likely the most recent one.
7. Perform post-transfer tasks. Ensure that you can make and receive a phone call. If necessary, pair your Apple Watch with the new iPhone. You’ll also need to pair your Bluetooth accessories—including AirPods—with your new iPhone. Plus, some app data needs to sync to your new iPhone, so open the Mail, Contacts, and Calendar apps and check if they have your data. It could take a few minutes for them to fill up. Apps may request notification permissions again, and you may need to download content and in-app purchases.
8. If you use two-factor authentication with an app like 1Password, Authy, or Google Authenticator, ensure you can get your 2FA codes using your new iPhone. 1Password and Authy are good about providing access to 2FA codes from multiple devices—just log in to your account from each device—but Google Authenticator may require some additional setup since it didn’t initially offer any way to transfer codes to a new phone.
9. Finally, if necessary, set up single sign-on for work or school. If your workplace or school uses a security system like Duo, you’ll likely want to activate your new iPhone and deactivate the old one. Using any device, navigate to a standard single sign-in login screen from your organization, look for a link for managing your logins, click that link, and follow the prompts.

Although Apple works hard to make the process of transferring from an old iPhone to a new one as painless as possible, some things may fail to transfer seamlessly. For that reason, we strongly recommend holding onto your old iPhone for a week or so to ensure the new one can do everything the old one could. During that time, put the new iPhone through its paces with an eye toward checking every app you need.

For more information on all the great Apple products, features, and services, give us a call!  940-767-MACS (6227).  Or stop by MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by iStock.com/valiantsin suprunovich)

The post What You Need to Know Before Switching to a New iPhone first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

Camera Modes and Controls

Apple’s most important additions rely on machine learning to enhance your image or the background. Because of the significant camera and CPU requirements for these features, they require specific setups. All work with any Mac using a sufficiently recent iPhone (excluding the iPhone SE) with Continuity Camera, but several also work with a Mac’s camera.

Here’s what you can do in macOS 14 Sonoma (these features are also available in macOS 13 Ventura’s Control Center, under Video Effects). To access the controls for these features, click the Video menu in the menu bar—it appears whenever the camera is active, but not before. Click each feature to turn it on (green) or off (gray), and each has additional settings you can reveal by clicking the > to the right.

• Center Stage: Use Center Stage to stay centered in the frame as you move around during the call—it’s great for those who work at standing desks and dislike standing still, but be careful if you leave room clutter near the edge of your camera’s view, because it may be revealed as you move. You can choose between the iPhone’s Main and Ultra Wide cameras; experiment to see which you prefer. It requires an iPhone 11 or later over Continuity Camera or a Mac with Apple silicon using an Apple Studio Display.
• Portrait: Rather than replace the background like many apps allow, Portrait blurs the background to keep the focus on you. Its slider lets you control the blur level. It works with an iPhone XR or later via Continuity Camera and on Macs with Apple silicon using a built-in webcam or Apple Studio Display. (Zoom and other apps add a Background item to the Video menu as well; Portrait blurs virtual backgrounds, too.)
• Studio Light: If your room has poor lighting, Studio Light can improve your appearance by dimming the background and illuminating your face. Move the slider to adjust the lighting to your liking. Its Continuity Camera requirements specify an iPhone 12 or later, or a Mac with Apple silicon using its built-in webcam or an Apple Studio Display.
• Desk View: This mode leverages the Ultra Wide camera of the iPhone 12 or later via Continuity Camera to display both your desk and your face simultaneously, which could help show off physical sketches or other objects. It launches a separate Desk View app and requires additional setup beyond what we can document here. Set aside some time to become familiar with it before attempting to use it in a call.
• Manual controls: If you’re not using Center Stage, you can zoom, pan, and recenter your face in the frame. Move your pointer over the video preview, after which you can drag the zoom control left or right, drag your image within the frame to pan, and click Recenter to reset any zooming and panning changes you’ve made. These controls require an iPhone XR or later via Continuity Camera, or any Mac connected to an Apple Studio Display.

Mic Modes

Apple also uses machine learning to enhance your audio, providing spatial audio and two special modes: voice isolation and wide spectrum. To switch between these modes, click Mic Mode in the Video menu or the Audio menu in the menu bar—the latter appears if a running app only does audio and the microphone is active. (Again, these are available for Ventura users under Mic Mode in Control Center.) Here’s what they offer:

• Voice isolation: Use this option to focus on your voice and reduce background sounds in your environment. It’s a good choice for standard video calls.
• Wide spectrum: This option captures your voice and the sounds in the environment around you. Choose it if you want the other parties to hear music being played or other ambient sounds.
• Spatial audio: For multi-person calls, spatial audio makes the voices you hear sound like they’re coming from where each person is positioned on the screen. It doesn’t appear alongside the others; we assume it’s included in Standard mode. It requires wired headphones, a Mac laptop using its internal speakers, or an Apple silicon Mac using AirPods.

Reactions

While Apple’s camera and mic modes are generally useful, many people have issues with the Reactions feature, which fills your frame with a 3D effect when you make the associated hand gesture. The problem is that you can inadvertently make such a gesture when it would be highly inappropriate. Imagine filling the screen with balloons while you’re on an important call with a client’s CEO or, if you’re a therapist, accidentally shooting off fireworks while talking through sensitive issues with a patient. Reactions include hearts, balloons, thumbs up, thumbs down, rain, confetti, fireworks, and lasers.

You can turn off the Reactions feature entirely in the Video menu, and we recommend doing so unless all your video calls are informal and light-hearted. When it’s off, you can manually trigger a reaction by clicking its icon in the Video menu.

As with other video-related features, the Reactions feature requires a Mac with Apple silicon or a Mac using Continuity Camera with an iPhone 12 or later.

Presenter Overlay

One problem with sharing your screen while videoconferencing is that the audience no longer sees you. That’s appropriate when everyone should focus on the shared screen, but in other situations, the audience may tune out if they can’t see you. Apple designed Presenter Overlay to combat that problem—it merges your image with the screen you’re sharing. The Large option puts your shared screen behind you, like a news presenter, whereas the Small option shows your face in a movable bubble, so you stay on screen without obscuring much content.

To start using Presenter Overlay, start sharing your screen using the screen-sharing feature of the videoconferencing app you’re using. Then click the Screen Sharing menu in the menu bar, expand the Presenter Overlay section if necessary, and select Large or Small. The video preview shows what your audience sees. (Presenter Overlay has been somewhat flaky in our testing for reasons we don’t understand. If the controls don’t show up, try switching cameras or restarting screen sharing.)

In Large mode, you can move the shared screen to your other side by moving your pointer over the video preview and clicking the button with opposing arrows. In Small mode, you can move your bubble (it’s on your main screen, not the preview window) by dragging it to the desired position.

If you fell into specific videoconferencing habits in the early days of the pandemic, take a few minutes to explore the options that Apple now makes available for improving your video, audio, and presentations. And turn off the Reactions feature if you don’t want to be surprised by an accidental gesture triggering an effect at a potentially awkward time.

For more information on all the great Apple products and features, give us a call today!  940-767-MACS (6227) MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

The post Make the Most of the Mac’s Videoconferencing Capabilities first appeared on MacTech Solutions.

All that’s by way of saying that you don’t have to shrink images that you share in email or Messages in most cases, and doing so can cause problems for recipients. The most common issues people run into are images being too small or fuzzy to see, not matching the dimensions needed for a website, or being too low quality to save for posterity.

There are exceptions. Smaller or lower quality images may make sense when sending or receiving in rural areas with slow Internet connections, places with no Wi-Fi and tenuous cell service, and remote locations with only satellite Internet. In those cases, you’ll either realize that messages are taking a long time to send or hear from the other party that it’s a problem. But, most of the time, it’s best to send actual size images, so let’s look at how you ensure that.

Sending Actual Size Images in Email

How do you ensure you’re not sending downsized images in email? In Mail on Apple’s devices, the details vary slightly depending on which device you are using, but in each case, you want to use the Actual Size option. Neither Gmail nor Outlook suffers from this problem. Here’s what you need to know for each of these email clients:

• Mail on the Mac: When you drop an image into a Mail message, an Image Size menu specifies the size at which it will be sent. Small resizes the longest side to 320 pixels, Medium to 640, and Large to 1280. Actual Size sends the original image, which is what you want. The Image Size menu remembers its setting, so if you send one image in a smaller size, you probably want to reset it to Actual Size for the next one. If you attach multiple images in a single message, they’ll all be resized similarly.
  
• Mail on the iPad: On the iPad, when you add an image to a message, you’ll see a note in the header information that says something like “Images: 2.9 MB.” Tap anywhere in the header to reveal extra header fields, including an Image Size line with options for the different sizes. Small and Medium work as on the Mac, resizing the longest side to 320 and 640 pixels, and Actual Size sends the original, which is generally what you want. However, Large resizes the image to half the size of the original if appropriate or leaves it alone if not. Multiple images will be resized to the selected size.
  
• Mail on the iPhone: Because of the iPhone’s smaller screen size, Mail on the iPhone asks how to resize the image(s) after you tap the send button. The results are the same as on the iPad, described above.
  
• Gmail on the Web: You don’t need to do anything when sending images in Gmail to prevent them from being resized. Although Gmail lets you visibly resize an image with handles and offers Small, Best Fit, and Original options when you click, none of them change the file size or resolution of the image being sent. Only some receiving email apps (including Gmail and Outlook, but not Mail) will display the sent size. Regardless of the visible size, opening an attached image reveals that it’s the original. Note that Gmail has a 25 MB limit on attachments and may refuse to send a message with more than that or may resize images to make them fit. If you need to send an image at a particular size using Gmail, resize it before attaching—see below for a tip on how to do that.
  
• Outlook on the Mac: You can visibly resize images sent in Outlook on the Mac, but doing so affects only the displayed size, not the file size or resolution of the attached image. Email clients receiving an Outlook-resized image may do so at the sent size, but opening it reveals that it’s the original image. If you need to send an image at a smaller size, resize it before sending—read below for help.
  

Avoiding Lower-Quality Images in Messages

Although it may seem confusing, keeping images from being resized in email is pretty straightforward. Ensuring that you send full-quality images in Messages is trickier because there are multiple variables in play:

• Turn off Low Quality Image Mode: Make sure you turn off Settings > Messages > Low Quality Image Mode on the iPhone and iPad. (The Mac has no comparable setting.) This mode downsizes images sent via iMessage (blue bubble conversations), making them smaller and lower quality. Only turn it on if it’s paramount that you save bandwidth due to a slow connection or data cap.
  
• Avoid sending via SMS/MMS: There’s no need for Low Quality Image Mode for messages sent via SMS (green bubble conversations) because the MMS technology used to send images for SMS conversations has size limits that vary by carrier, usually between 500 KB and 3.5 MB. Messages automatically resizes and compresses images to fit within carrier limits. You have no control over this process, which is likely to be unpredictable. If you need to send someone a full-quality image, use email instead of SMS. Happily, in iOS 18, Messages will support the RCS standard that allows full-quality images.
• Prefer high-speed connections: Although Apple doesn’t document anything along these lines, some suggest that Messages may reduce image size or quality when using slow networks. If you (or your recipient) experience issues while using weak cellular connectivity, try again when connected to the Internet via high-speed Wi-Fi.

Bonus Tip: How to Resize an Image Manually

Let’s flip the problem around. Say you use Gmail or Outlook and need to send an image with specific dimensions or a smaller file size than the original. How do you do that easily? Preview! That’s right, Apple’s Preview works well for resizing images and shrinking file sizes.

To resize an image you have open in Preview, choose Tools > Adjust Size and enter the desired width or height into the appropriate field. As long as Scale Proportionally is selected, Preview will automatically set the other dimension to resize the image proportionally. You can choose other units, but pixels is generally best. Preview even reports on the resulting size at the bottom. After you click OK, save the image.

What if you want to reduce an image’s file size without changing its dimensions? With the image open in Preview, choose File > Export, choose JPEG from the Format menu, and move the Quality slider to the left to increase the JPEG compression. Preview reports on the new file size each time you move the slider. You’ll want to export a few tests to determine the best combination of file size and quality.

Generally speaking, changing an image’s dimensions is a better way to reduce file size than increasing compression.

But really, in most cases, just send the original image.

For more information give us a call!  MacTech Solutions is always happy to help our customers navigate the world of technology in any way we can.  940-767-MACS (6227) MacTech Solutions, 4020 Rhea Rd, Suite 3B, Wichita Falls.  We’re open Monday thru Friday, 10am to 6pm

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

The post It’s Usually OK to Share Full-Size Images in Email and Messages first appeared on MacTech Solutions.