Before switching to the current Outlook for Mac, back up any data stored only on your Mac and check whether the features you rely on will still be available.

What Is Changing?

Legacy Outlook connects to Exchange Online through Exchange Web Services, usually abbreviated EWS. Microsoft is retiring that connection method. The current Outlook for Mac remains supported.

Microsoft’s updated EWS retirement plan describes a phased process beginning in October 2026. Your IT administrator may be able to keep legacy Outlook connected temporarily after October 2026, but Microsoft will shut down that connection method completely on April 1, 2027. (Yes, April Fools’ Day.)

If your administrator extends access, agree on a firm date to finish the move.

Check Whether You’re Using Legacy Outlook

Updating Outlook doesn’t always move you out of the legacy experience. Look for an enabled Legacy Outlook switch in the Outlook window. Microsoft’s instructions for the current experience say to turn that switch off to move to the redesigned Outlook.

You can also check the Help menu. If it includes Revert to Legacy Outlook, you’re already using the newer interface. If neither control appears, ask IT which version and mode you’re using.

Does the Deadline Apply to You?

Microsoft lists different deadlines depending on your Outlook license and where your email is hosted:

• Microsoft 365 business email: Legacy Outlook users with Exchange Online mailboxes need to move to the current Outlook.
• Microsoft 365 Personal or Family: Legacy Outlook support ends in October 2026. The Exchange Online cutoff doesn’t set a disconnection date for third-party accounts such as Gmail or iCloud.
• Exchange Subscription Edition on your organization’s servers: Microsoft lists legacy support through October 9, 2029, with security updates and technical assistance on a best-effort basis.
• Office LTSC 2024: Microsoft lists the same limited support through October 9, 2029. Even with that license, legacy Outlook will lose access to Exchange Online as EWS shuts down.

For the complete license-by-license breakdown, see Microsoft’s support timeline table. If you’re unsure where your work email is hosted, ask your IT provider.

Protect Your Local Data

Start with a current backup of your Mac. Then look for anything stored only in Outlook on that computer, particularly folders under On My Computer. Pay special attention to local calendars, contacts, and previously imported archives. Signing in to the same account elsewhere won’t recover locally stored information.

For an additional safety copy, legacy Outlook can export messages, contacts, and other items to an .olm archive. Microsoft’s instructions start with Export on the Tools tab; some versions offer it in the File menu. Save the completed archive somewhere included in your backups.

The migration announcement says local tasks and notes aren’t transferred. Microsoft’s current feature comparison also lists the in-app Notes and Tasks modules as upcoming and Public Folders as unavailable. If you rely on those features, arrange another way to access the information before switching.

Switch and Test Your Usual Tasks

Once you’ve backed up your data and checked the features you need, turn off the Legacy Outlook switch. If it’s missing, check for an update with Help > Check for Updates. On a company-managed Mac, contact IT if the switch or update is unavailable.

If your local folders haven’t appeared, look for Import On My Computer Data in the File menu, or an Import Now button under On My Computer. Microsoft documents both ways to start the import. Follow the prompts, then check the imported contents. Menu wording can vary by version; if neither option appears, get help before deleting or recreating your Outlook profile.

After switching and completing any local import, work through these steps:

1. Accounts: Confirm that expected folders and recent messages appear. Send a test message and verify that you receive a reply.
2. Calendars and contacts: Review upcoming appointments and confirm access to shared calendars and important contacts.
3. Local archives: Find several older messages and open their attachments. Keep your original data and backups until you’ve verified the migration.
4. Features you use: Check your signatures, important rules, shared mailbox access, and essential add-ins.

If something fails, tell your help desk or IT provider what you were trying to do and what happened. For example, name the shared mailbox you can’t open and include any error message. Microsoft directs personal-account users to Help > Contact Support.

If your organization offers Outlook on the Web, confirm that you can sign in and use it as a fallback if the desktop app has problems. However, note that it won’t replace access to information stored locally on your Mac.

Contact us if you need help moving local archives or setting up shared accounts.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Rawf8)

Social Media: Microsoft says legacy Outlook for Mac will stop connecting to Exchange Online mailboxes starting in October 2026. Check which Outlook experience you’re using, protect local archives, and test essential features when you switch.

Follow These Steps When Switching to a New iPhone 18

Are you considering getting one of Apple’s new iPhone 18 models? While it’s tempting to unbox a new iPhone and dive right in, a methodical setup will save you from potential frustrations down the road. When you’re ready to transfer your data—and, for many people, that means much of your digital life—to the new iPhone, follow these step-by-step instructions. For visual learners, Apple also provides a video showing how to transfer your data and set up a new iPhone.

1. Ensure that both your current iPhone and Apple Watch (if you have one) are running the latest versions of iOS and watchOS. These updates can take a while to install, so don’t leave them for the last minute.
2. Have your login details ready: you’ll need your iPhone and Apple Watch passcodes, along with your Apple Account email address and password.
3. Back up your old iPhone to iCloud or your Mac. If you back up to a Mac, make sure you encrypt the backup (and record the encrypted backup password!) so it includes passwords, Wi-Fi settings, browsing history, Health data, and call history. For safety, consider backing up to both iCloud and your Mac. iCloud backups are typically more straightforward and avoid issues like unreliable USB cables. If you don’t usually back up to iCloud, Apple offers temporary iCloud storage for 21 days when transferring to a new iPhone, with another 21 days if your new iPhone doesn’t arrive in time. To make a temporary iCloud backup, go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone and tap Get Started under Prepare for New iPhone. The temporary backup sticks around for 7 days after you restore it to the new iPhone.
4. If you have an Apple Watch, you can transfer it to the new iPhone during setup. If the automatic transfer doesn’t work for some reason, you can manually unpair the Apple Watch from the old iPhone and pair it again with the new one. If you choose the manual route with a cellular Apple Watch, you’ll be prompted to keep or remove your cellular plan; be sure to keep the plan to continue using it after you re-pair.
5. If you ordered your new iPhone through Apple and linked it to your cellular carrier account at purchase, or bought it directly from your carrier, your phone number usually transfers automatically during activation. If the transfer doesn’t happen automatically and your carrier supports eSIM Quick Transfer, Setup Assistant will guide you through transferring your eSIM directly from your old iPhone.
6. Use Apple’s Quick Start to set up the new iPhone. Put your old iPhone nearby, follow the on-screen instructions, and use it to scan the animation that appears on the new iPhone. When Quick Start asks how you want to transfer your data, you have two main choices: iCloud or a direct transfer. Neither is especially quick, so start only when you have plenty of time. (If your old iPhone isn’t available or Quick Start fails, you can instead set up the new iPhone manually and restore from an iCloud or Mac backup.)
   • Download from iCloud: Restore from your old iPhone’s iCloud backup. This approach lets you begin using the new iPhone while apps and data continue downloading in the background. After connecting the new iPhone to Wi-Fi and choosing Download from iCloud, select the correct backup—probably the most recent one you just created.
   • Transfer from iPhone: Transfer your apps, data, and settings directly from the old iPhone, either wirelessly or with a wired connection—a wired connection can be useful if wireless migration proves unreliable, but there’s no way to know which will be faster. With a direct transfer, regardless of wired or wireless, both iPhones remain unavailable until the process finishes. For wireless transfers, keep them near each other and plugged into power.
   • Finder or iTunes: Although Apple still supports restoring your old iPhone’s data from a backup saved to your Mac, it gets the least attention these days, and we would resort to it only if the Quick Start methods failed. When you get to the Transfer Apps & Data screen on the new iPhone, tap From Mac or PC, connect the new iPhone to your Mac, open a Finder window (or iTunes on macOS 10.14 Mojave or earlier), select the iPhone, click Restore Backup, and choose the appropriate backup.
7. Complete post-transfer tasks. Some app data needs to sync, so open the Mail, Contacts, and Calendar apps to check for your information; it may take a few minutes to populate. Verify you can make and receive calls. You’ll need to add your payment cards to Apple Pay, and transfer or re-add any transit or ID cards that don’t appear in Wallet. If necessary, pair your Apple Watch with the new iPhone. Also, pair your Bluetooth accessories—you shouldn’t need to re-pair AirPods, which sync automatically via iCloud. Apps might ask you to log in again and grant notification permissions, and you might need to re-download content and in-app purchases.
8. If you rely on Apple’s Passwords app for passwords, passkeys, and two-factor authentication codes, everything should sync via your iCloud account, assuming you have Passwords & Keychain enabled in iCloud. 1Password and other password managers also usually sync via an online account. Two-factor authentication apps like Authy and Google Authenticator may need additional configuration—confirm that your codes appear on the new iPhone. Regardless, verify that you can log in to key accounts before wiping the old phone.
9. If your employer or school requires you to register your iPhone for access to organizational systems, verify that everything works before erasing your old phone. Authentication apps, VPNs, device-management systems, and other security services may treat the new iPhone as a new device and require you to sign in again, re-register it, or obtain approval from your IT department. Test these services on the new iPhone while the old one is still available in case you need it to approve a login or transfer an account.

Although Apple works hard to make transferring from an old iPhone to a new one as smooth as possible, some things may not transfer perfectly. We strongly recommend keeping your old iPhone for a week or so to ensure the new one can do everything the old one did. During that time, thoroughly test the new iPhone, checking each app you need. Once you’re confident the new iPhone is working well, follow Apple’s instructions for erasing the old iPhone before selling, trading it in, or giving it away.

(Featured image by Adam Engst)

Social Media: Getting a new iPhone 18? Don’t rush the setup. A little prep work now can save you from missing data, apps, and settings later. Here’s what to do before and after transferring from your old iPhone.

(Featured image generated by Adam Engst with ChatGPT)

Social Media: Running low on Mac disk space? The free OmniDiskSweeper shows which files and folders are hogging your storage, sorted by size so you can quickly find and trash the biggest culprits.

(Images by iStock.com/ziprashantzi and Rachel Wickremasinghe)

Social Media: For troubleshooting, your wireless Magic Keyboard and Magic Trackpad can work over USB-C if needed, but if Bluetooth or pairing fails when you’re booting into macOS Recovery, an old or cheap wired USB mouse and keyboard can save the day.

(Featured image generated by Adam Engst with ChatGPT)

Social Media: Automatic offloading of unused apps saves iPhone storage, but it’s inconvenient if you need an app that has been offloaded and there’s no connectivity to redownload it. Plan ahead!

(Featured image by iStock.com/monticelllo)

Social Media: Not sure if your USB-C cable is delivering power and data as it should? USB-C cables look similar but may work differently. Use the free WhatCable app to see what each of your cables supports.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Tatsiana Volkava)

Social Media: About to join a video call? The free Mac app Hand Mirror adds a menu bar icon that instantly shows your webcam view so you can check your hair before anyone else sees it.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/grinvalds)

Social Media: Microsoft Office 2019 for Mac will become read-only on July 13, 2026. Check your version now and explore your upgrade options before you lose the ability to create and edit documents.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Jacob Wackerhausen)

Social Media: Frustrated when Dictation on the iPhone mangles what you meant to say? Create fake contacts for troublesome words, and Dictation will learn to recognize them correctly across all your Apple devices.

These additions are the latest in Apple’s ongoing effort to extend battery lifespan. Understanding how these features work—and when to override them—can reduce frustration and help keep your MacBook battery healthy.

Why Apple Limits Charging

A battery’s lifespan depends on its “chemical age,” which is affected by charging patterns and temperature history. Lithium-ion batteries degrade faster when they spend extended time at full charge or when they generate excess heat during charging. As batteries chemically age, they hold less charge and deliver reduced performance.

Apple’s solution is to reduce the time batteries spend fully charged. This is particularly important for MacBooks that spend most of their time plugged into power at a desk—a scenario that would otherwise keep the battery at 100% and generate heat, both of which shorten battery life.

Optimized Battery Charging

Apple has rolled out optimized battery charging features on the Mac. The Optimized Battery Charging algorithm uses on-device machine learning to learn your daily charging routine, aiming to ensure your Mac is fully charged by the time you actually need to disconnect it from power and leave for the day.

If your MacBook spends most of its time plugged in at your desk, macOS may keep the battery at 80% and charge to full only when it predicts you’ll need to use it away from a power source. When Optimized Battery Charging is holding your battery at 80%, you’ll see Charging On Hold in the battery status menu. (The iPhone, iPad, and Apple Watch have similar features that learn when you typically unplug and delay charging past 80% until shortly before that time.)

The New Charge Limit Feature

Charge Limit in macOS 26.4 takes a different approach. Rather than relying on machine learning to predict when you’ll need a full charge, it lets you explicitly set a maximum charge level. Your Mac will charge to within a few percentage points of your chosen limit, then stop. If the battery drops more than 5% while connected to power, charging resumes until it reaches the limit again.

To set a charge limit, go to System Settings > Battery, click the ⓘ next to Charging, and choose a limit between 80% and 100%. When the limit is active, the battery status menu shows Charged to X% Limit.

Using Charge Limit is ideal if your MacBook rarely leaves your desk. Setting an 80% limit reduces battery wear while ensuring you always have enough charge for brief periods away from power.

When You Need a Full Charge

What about when you want your MacBook’s battery to be at full strength for an unpredictable day away from power, such as for a long flight? You can override both Optimized Battery Charging and Charge Limit when you need maximum battery life:

• For immediate needs: Click the battery icon in the menu bar and choose Charge to Full Now. Your Mac will charge to 100% regardless of current settings.
• To disable limits temporarily: In System Settings > Battery, click the ⓘ next to Charging, turn off Optimized Battery Charging, and click the Turn Off Until Tomorrow button when prompted. Also set Charge Limit to 100%.
• To disable limits permanently: Follow the same steps as the bullet above, but click the Turn Off button in the warning dialog instead. Also set Charge Limit to 100%. Remember, this will likely reduce your battery’s overall lifespan.

(Similar charging limits and workarounds also apply to the iPhone and Apple Watch. On the iPhone, go to Settings > Battery > Charging and turn off Optimized Battery Charging. For the Apple Watch, look in Settings > Battery > Battery Health on the watch itself.)

About That Slow Charger Warning

The new Slow Charger indicator helps explain why your MacBook might be charging slowly or even draining while in use. If the power adapter doesn’t deliver enough wattage for your Mac model, you’ll now see a warning in the battery menu and in System Settings > Battery.

You can check your current power adapter’s wattage by reading the fine print on the charger itself, or by opening the System Information app and checking the AC Charger section in the Power screen. It’s safe to use an adapter with a higher wattage than required, but don’t go below the wattage of Apple’s included adapters.

For optimal charging, use an adapter that delivers at least the minimum wattage recommended for your Mac:

• MacBook Neo: 20 watts (no fast charging available)
• 13-inch MacBook Air: 30 or 35 watts standard, 67 watts for fast charging
• 15-inch MacBook Air: 35 watts standard, 70 watts for fast charging
• 14-inch MacBook Pro: 70 watts standard (or 96 watts for M4 Pro and M4 Max chips); 96 watts for fast charging
• 16-inch MacBook Pro: 140 watts for both standard and fast charging

Using your iPhone’s 20W charger with a MacBook Pro might technically work, but you’ll now be warned that it’s not delivering adequate power.

Finding the Right Balance

Apple’s battery optimization features represent a trade-off between immediate convenience and long-term battery health. For most users, leaving Optimized Battery Charging enabled makes sense—it learns your patterns and charges to full when needed. The new Charge Limit feature offers more explicit control for those who prefer it, particularly those whose MacBooks rarely leave the desk and can be locked at 80%.

If you frequently fight these features, you may have an unpredictable schedule that the algorithms can’t anticipate. In that case, consider turning off Optimized Battery Charging or setting a higher Charge Limit. Just remember that keeping your battery at 100% more often will shorten its lifespan—a trade-off that might be acceptable depending on how long you plan to keep your laptop.

(Featured image by iStock.com/shirophoto)

Social Media: Is your MacBook’s battery stuck at 80%? That’s Apple protecting your battery’s long-term health. macOS 26.4 adds new controls, including Charge Limit and a Slow Charger warning. Learn how these features work—and when to override them.

All the USB-C ports on a Mac look identical, but they don’t all behave the same way. On Macs with Apple silicon and Intel-based Macs with the T2 chip, Apple designates one port as the DFU (device firmware update) port. Most of the time, this distinction doesn’t matter—you can plug a device into any port, and it’ll work normally. But for certain tasks, using the wrong port can cause mysterious failures that waste hours of troubleshooting time.

Note that we say “USB-C” here, even though in most cases, these are Thunderbolt ports. However, Thunderbolt uses the USB-C connector, and Apple refers to the ports as USB-C ports, so we’re following Apple’s lead.

When It Matters Which Port You Use

The DFU port exists for one specific purpose: reviving or restoring your Mac’s firmware using another Mac and the Apple Configurator app. This recovery procedure requires connecting a USB-C cable (not a Thunderbolt cable!) to the DFU port. It’s extremely uncommon to need to revive a Mac in this way, but it might be necessary if the Mac starts up to an exclamation point in a circle, starts up to a blank screen, shows the status indicator light pattern for firmware recovery mode, or has problems installing macOS.

For most everyday tasks, the DFU port should work like any other USB-C port. However, Apple has documented one notable exception on Macs with Apple silicon: when installing or updating macOS on an external drive, avoid using the DFU port. If your external drive is connected to it during installation, the process may fail partway through, often without a useful error message and certainly without a clear “Connect your drive to a different port” message. You might see vague notifications like “Some updates could not be installed” or cryptic errors like “com.apple.OSInstallerSetup.error 702.” After installation or updating completes, you can connect your external drive to any port, including the DFU port.

We’ve also heard of situations where seemingly inexplicable problems, such as errors from an Apple SuperDrive attached to a Thunderbolt dock, were resolved by switching to a different port. It wasn’t always clear which port was responsible, but it’s always worth trying a different one if you have trouble.

Finding Your Mac’s DFU Port

How do you figure out which USB-C port is the DFU port? Apple maintains a support document describing the DFU port locations for each Mac model. The location varies by model and, within the same model, sometimes by generation. Apple does not explain why a particular port is designated as the DFU port or provide another way to identify it. All you can do is refer to Apple’s documentation.

Unfortunately, users have found errors on that page in the past, so if you’re experiencing unexplained installation failures or other errors, try a different port even if you believe you’re using the correct one.

DFU Port Takeaways

For everyday use—connecting displays, drives, docks, and other peripherals—you shouldn’t need to think about which port you’re using. The only time you must use the DFU port is when reviving or restoring a very unhappy Mac.

However, if you’re setting up an external boot drive or updating macOS on an external drive, take a moment to identify your Mac’s DFU port and plug your drive into a different one. And if a peripheral, even if it’s connected through a dock, behaves inexplicably, treat the port itself as a variable. Before troubleshooting cables, drives, or software, move the connection to another USB-C port. This simple step can save you from frustrating troubleshooting sessions where everything appears to work but ultimately fails.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Milosz Deptula)

Social Media: Your Mac’s USB-C ports look identical, but one is special—and using it can cause macOS installations or updates on external drives to fail, or trigger other errors with Thunderbolt docks. Learn which USB-C port isn’t like the others.

Estonia, Tallinn, July 11, 2020. Apple Macbook pro 15 Retina on table

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Armastas)

Social Media: Is your Mac typing the wrong characters or rejecting your password? You may have accidentally switched keyboard layouts. Here’s how to check your input source and prevent it from happening again.

Apple’s Focus feature on the iPhone, iPad, and Mac can silence those interruptions, but Focus is considerably more complex than the straightforward Do Not Disturb feature it replaced in 2021. Misconfiguring Focus such that it activates unexpectedly can cause you to miss important calls, messages, and other notifications.

What Focus Does

Focus lets you create customized notification environments that block unwanted interruptions while allowing important ones through. You can have a Focus for different situations—when you’re at work, eating dinner, at the gym, and more—each with its own rules about when it activates and which people and apps can reach you.

When a Focus is active, it can:

• Silence notifications from selected people and apps
• Allow specific people and apps to break through
• Change your Lock Screen appearance
• Hide certain Home Screen pages
• Automatically reply to messages explaining you’re unavailable
• Filter content in apps like Mail, Calendar, and Messages
• Make a certain profile or tab group active in Safari

Focus can share your settings across all your Apple devices, which saves you from having to configure it on each device but can also create confusing interactions.

The Built-In Focus Modes

Apple provides three essential Focus modes that cover most people’s needs:

• Do Not Disturb: A general-purpose Focus for when you need to ensure your iPhone doesn’t interrupt you. It’s ideal for doctor appointments, workouts, movies, and similar situations. You can schedule it, but it’s often best to activate it manually from Control Center for a specific amount of time or until you leave the current location.
• Sleep: This Focus activates according to the Sleep schedule you set on the iPhone (in either Settings > Focus > Sleep or in the Health app) to minimize nighttime interruptions. It lets you choose a specific Lock Screen, Home Screen, and Apple Watch face to limit distractions at night.
• Driving: Automatically activates when your iPhone connects to a car’s Bluetooth system or detects driving motion. (The Bluetooth connection may be best if you’re frequently a passenger and want to use your iPhone while being driven.) It blocks nearly all notifications to keep your attention on the road and can send custom automatic replies to people who text you.

For further customization, you can create additional Focus modes—Apple suggests modes for Gaming, Mindfulness, Personal, Reading, and Work. For instance, if you take a spin class every Tuesday at noon and yoga on Thursdays at 7 AM, you could create a Focus for Working Out that would automatically activate during those times.

Configuring a Focus

To set up a Focus, go to Settings > Focus on your iPhone or iPad, or System Settings > Focus on your Mac. Select the Focus you want to configure or create a new one, then:

1. Choose allowed people: Decide whether to allow or silence notifications from specific people. You can also specify whether phone calls from certain groups (Allowed People, Favorites, Contacts, or Contacts groups) can break through.
   
2. Choose allowed apps: Similarly, allow or silence specific apps. You can also enable Time Sensitive Notifications, which lets urgent alerts (like delivery notifications or security alerts) come through even from disallowed apps.
   
3. Set a schedule: Have the Focus turn on at certain times, locations (on when you arrive, off when you leave), or when using specific apps (but not when apps are in the background). App-based triggers are useful for presentations, live performances, and games. A Smart Activation option on the iPhone can automatically turn on a Focus based on your location, app usage, and time of day.
   
4. Add Focus Filters: Customize how Calendar, Mail, Messages, Safari, and others behave when the Focus is active—for example, showing only certain Safari tab groups and your work email accounts during a Professional Focus.
   
5. Intelligent Breakthrough & Silencing: If you have Apple Intelligence enabled, this option “intelligently” allows priority notifications to interrupt you and silences others. It doesn’t override your explicit settings for allowing or silencing notifications.

The Complexity Problem

While Focus is powerful, its complexity can create unpredictable behavior. Here are common pitfalls to avoid:

• Unexpected activation: With automatic schedules based on time, location, and apps, it’s hard to predict when a Focus might turn on. You may not realize notifications are being silenced until you’ve missed something important. This is especially important if your routine is interrupted. Perhaps you normally work out at noon, but today you are at a professional conference or dealing with a family emergency.
• Cross-device confusion: By default, Focus syncs across all your Apple devices via the Share Across Devices option. Syncing means a Focus activated on your iPhone—such as Sleep—might also silence notifications on your Mac when you’re working late and need to communicate with colleagues. Consider turning off Share Across Devices unless you’re certain you want synchronized behavior.
• Unpredictable AI: Focus includes two features that rely on machine learning—Smart Activation and Intelligent Breakthrough & Silencing—to make contextual decisions about when Focus should activate and which notifications are important enough to bypass it. We recommend against using them because they make an already unpredictable scenario even more unpredictable.
• Silenced notifications indicator: When a Focus is active, people who text you in Messages see that your notifications are silenced. While this can be helpful, it can also confuse others when a Focus activates unexpectedly.
  
• The forgotten Focus: A Focus that activates automatically when you go to a specific location or open a particular app might remain active longer than you expected. For instance, what if a Focus activates when Mail is your frontmost app, but you have to leave unexpectedly and your Mac doesn’t sleep automatically, so Mail remains the active app over the weekend? That might be particularly confusing when a Focus Filter hides certain accounts or data.

Practical Recommendations

To get the benefits of Focus without the confusion:

• Keep it simple: Start with Do Not Disturb, Sleep, and Driving. These three cover the needs of most people and have the most predictable behavior. If you created Focus modes you’re not using, delete them.
• Be conservative with triggers: If you add schedules or triggers based on location or apps, keep them to a minimum. The more triggers you add, the harder it becomes to predict when a Focus will be active.
• Allow more calls: These days, unexpected calls from people you know well are fairly uncommon, and those that do happen are more likely to be important. So consider allowing calls from family and close friends (perhaps via Favorites or a Contacts group) and enabling Allow Repeated Calls, which lets someone through if they call twice within three minutes.
• Check Focus status when troubleshooting: If you or someone you know is missing notifications, check whether a Focus is unexpectedly active. The easiest place to check is Control Center.
• Review Share Across Devices: If you experience unexpected Focus behavior, turn off Share Across Devices and configure each device’s Focus settings independently.
• Control notifications directly: Rather than rely on Focus, limit notifications to just those that are actually important to you. Many apps are unnecessarily chatty.

Focus is a powerful tool for managing the constant stream of notifications from our devices, but it requires careful configuration. When in doubt, keep it simple: Sleep to protect your sleeping hours, Driving to block distractions in the car, and Do Not Disturb for ad hoc appointments and performances may be all you need.

(Featured image by iStock.com/DragonImages)

Social Media: Apple’s Focus can silence distractions when you need quiet time, but its complexity can cause you to miss important notifications. Learn how to configure it safely—and avoid the pitfalls that lead to missed calls and messages.

(Featured image by iStock.com/Liubomyr Vorona)

Social Media: Missing texts from unknown numbers? iOS 26 filters them into hidden lists. Here’s where to find them in the Messages app—and how to mark senders as known so you don’t miss important messages. PS: The same applies to calls in the Phone app.

(Featured image based on an original by iStock.com/Khosrork)

Social Media: Drowning in open tabs and can’t find the one playing sound? Look for the speaker icon on the tab itself, or use Safari’s address bar icon or Chrome’s music note for quick control.